A Chancay Headcloth Peru, c. 1000-1300 AD Intricate openwork woven cotton (sometimes referred to as gauze), two loom widths sewn together. The overall composition is of feline faces arranged within an elongated diamond pattern. This would have been used as a turban or headwrap. Mounted on a panel, framed and glazed. Note: Chancay textiles are extraordinarily varied and are almost without exception executed in a virtuoso manner. From gauzes and openwork embroidery to painted plain weave and tapestry, the most challenging avenues were explored. Openwork, ultimately derived from the ancient coastal fishing tradition of net making, reached new heights of lacy intricacy. On most gauze and openwork cloths, only the weaver could see the motifs during their creation because the threads pulled together when not under the tension of the loom. Hence, when the weaver removed the finished textile from the loom, its designs became illegible, especially if the piece was folded as in headcloths for women. This exemplifies the Andean value placed on essence over appearance. Provenance: A Private Collection, New York, NY, acquired in 2011 Gail Martin Gallery, New York, NY A Private American Collection, acquired in 1982 Dimensions: 49 x 42 inches; 52 x 45 inches, framed HID12401132022 © 2024 Heritage Auctions | All Rights Reserved